Red Alert! Eastern European dishes are invading random Western restaurants! Should you duck and cover, or welcome the enemy?
The salmon coulibiac at M. Wells Diner is a serious dish that serves about 4 people. The flavor profile is very focused: salmon, salmon roe, dill, chives and lemon — no mushrooms, rice or eggs like in some other recipes. The salmon is perfectly cooked, a rare prowess when it comes to puff pastry casing. The garnish consists of fried pickles. Do we really need fried dough with puff pastry? I’m not sure, but this almost made me love pickles.
Randomly, it turned out that the table dining next to us were the Law & Food guys! Hello!
Hey! Nice meeting you too. That salmon looks good– I’ve had their breakfast version before, but yours looks intense.
[…] rendition, partly motivated by a recent meal at M. Wells, is definitely more a coulibiac than a genuine kulebiaka. In fact, the large piece of rare, pink […]
[…] In a Red Alert almost three years ago, I featured the rather ephemeral M. Wells Diner. After closing over one of those New York lease arguments everybody talks about for a month before forgetting all about it and moving on to the next piece of food gossip, the owners opened M. Wells Dinette at PS1, and more recently, M. Wells Steakhouse, both in Long Island City. […]