Everything You Need to Know about Khachapuri on MUNCHIES

MUNCHIES just published my article on khachapuri: “Georgia’s Cheese Bread Might Be Better Than Pizza”. It covers all the various types of cheese breads you can find in Georgia, from the classic Imeretian khachapuri to the much rarer khabizgini. To help you orient yourself, I’ve created a map of all the Georgian regions that claim their own local variations of the […]


Caucasus Adventures Redux

I’ve recently posted the last installment of my Azerbaijan Adventures, so it’s time to say farewell to the Caucasus (for the time being, at least), and look back at all I have distilled over the past three years. Like a goat jumping over the snowy peaks of the Caucasus, I have traveled through Georgia, Armenia, […]

Tbilisi - Gonashvili St. - Bakery

Georgian Adventures, Part 9

To conclude this Georgian Adventure series, here’s a look at the stores and markets of the capital city, Tbilisi. Soviet mosaics are an endangered species in Tbilisi. Here is a rare specimen from the Lagidze Café on Rustaveli Avenue. Lagidze is a popular brand of sodas and syrups created at the turn of the 20th […]

Sukhum - Brigantina Mosaic

Georgian Adventures, Part 8

In our previous adventures, we entered Abkhazia, an almost-country that already has a language with a funky Cyrillic alphabet, a flag worthy of a banana republic, a warmongering emblem, a dead president (Vladislav Ardzinba, below), and authoritarian-looking billboards: Not to mention some of the most accomplished Soviet bus stop architecture: And some very Soviet-looking attractions, […]

Ingur Bridge

Georgian Adventures, Part 7

The last leg of our Georgian Adventures took us to the controversial Republic of Abkhazia, the self-proclaimed independent region at the Northeastern tip of the country. Let me start with some practical information (dating from July 2010) for prospective travelers. Getting there isn’t trivial. The airport is closed, and its reconstruction is being delayed for […]

Svaneti - Zagar Pass

Georgian Adventures, Part 6

In our last Georgian adventures, we were being jolted about on the roads of Svaneti.  One flat tire and many overflowing streams later, we reached the coveted Zagar Pass.  From there, it wasn’t long until we got to Ushguli, the climax of our trip. At 2,200 meters (7,200 feet), this is the highest permanently inhabited settlement […]

Road to Ushguli

Georgian Adventures, Part 5

After leaving the vineyards of Khvanchkara, we spent the night in Tsageri, then drove to Lentekhi, the capital of Lower Svaneti. This marked the beginning of our long journey across the mountainous, wild and beautiful region of Svaneti, home of the proud and bellicose Svans and their mysterious towers. How many towns can boast having a […]

Ambrolauri - Town Square

Georgian Adventures, Part 4

Our next trip in the Georgian Caucasus took us to the small province of Racha, known for its traditional culture, honey and wine. A quick look at the roadside food stalls reveals plums, figs and lady apples, but also chanterelles: And here is some of the famous Racha honey. Dozens of beekeepers are set up […]


Georgian Adventures, Part 3

True adventure in the Caucasus generally begins with trips to the mountainous regions. A combination of civil war, earthquake, rude climate and long neglect means that the roads are in dismal condition. Luckily, recent government efforts have taken the bandits out of the way and nowadays you can be confident that you will arrive at your destination alive and with […]

Road to Sighnaghi - Buying Chacha

Georgian Adventures, Part 2

Our trip to Kakheti started with an abandoned mountain road that our questionable map had identified as the shortest path to Telavi, the administrative center of the region. Despite lack of road signs, the fences blocking access, and the police officers mounting guard, we had now crossed the Gombori Pass, and drove through the village […]

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