Bukhara - Ceramics

Uzbek Adventures, Part 4: Bukhara

Returning to Uzbekistan after a sojourn in Tajikistan feels a little bit like reaching the promised land after crossing the desert. A Tajik desert with decrepit Soviet relics, hellish hotels, hellish roads, hellish tunnels, and teapots half-filled with adulterated booze, where the only direction locals can point you is to your very own nadir. If you […]

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Tashkent - National Food Restaurant

Uzbek Adventures, Part 3: Tashkent’s Eateries

In Lonely Planet‘s Central Asia travel guide, the Eating section for Tashkent starts as follows: “You’ll eat better in Tashkent than anywhere else in Uzbekistan and perhaps even than most of Central Asia as a whole.” Although the authors seem to take into consideration some Italian and sushi restaurants about which I couldn’t care less, […]

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Morel "Strudel" Shashlyk

Morel “Strudel” Kebabs and Vegetarian Plov

Here’s a recipe I’d like to share before morel season is well and truly over! Morels are among my favorite mushrooms, and even if some species are more flavorful than others, they rarely disappoint when they’re bought fresh and handled properly. And with two elements each calling for a generous amount of these delectable fungi, […]

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Azerbaijan - Baku - Mugam Club Restaurant

Azerbaijan Adventures, Part 3

Adventure is a big word for today’s post. Sure, it mostly takes place in caravanserais and some of the meals were of epic proportions, but I’m still just talking about restaurants and food. After our short trip to Nakhchivan, nest of spies, we’re back in Baku, ready to enjoy the opportunity to eat something other than lamb […]

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Uzbek Lamb and Green Pea Plov

A relative of pilaf, plov is a dish from Central Asia in which rice is cooked in a broth. The traditional version from Uzbekistan distinguishes itself in several regards: The base ingredients are fatty lamb cuts, rendered lamb fat, carrots, onions, garlic, hot pepper and spices. Depending on the region and season, each recipe adds other […]

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