Travel

Restaurants in Baku; caravanserais; dolma, kutab, chikhirtma, plov, kebabs and other pakhlavas; the infamous watermelon hookah.

Nakhchivan, nest of spies; semi-desert and mountainous landscapes; Ordubad and an abandoned Soviet factory.

Outdoors restaurants and the typical Azerbaijani meal; Ordubad; tutovka, kebabs and grilled vegetables.

The road to Nagorno-Karabakh; ruins in Shushi and Agdam; Zod Pass and road back to Armenia.

The Armenian Riviera and the bustling little town of Sevan; khorovats on the beach; Lake Sevan’s Gifts.

Breads and dried fruits; monasteries; sacrificing rams and blessing roosters.

Victory Park; food-themed Soviet friezes; Aragvi brandy.

Yerevan’s central market; Barbecue Street.

Stores and markets in Tbilisi; Lagidze Café; recipe for chocolate cream soda.

Sukhum: the monkey nursery and the death threats; Gagra: the chebureks and the market; Lake Ritsa: the honey and the shashlyks.