Every apricot pit conceals an intensely aromatic kernel. Eaten raw, this kernel is unpleasantly bitter, but once toasted its taste gets somewhat milder, reminiscent of almond. This should be no surprise, since…
Monthly Archives
April 2012
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I’ve often spoken of lyulya-kebabs, whether to criticize the ones I’ve eaten in New York restaurants (such as here, here, or here), or to sing the praise of the ones I’ve had in…
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Paskha, the Orthodox Easter, usually falls on a different day from its Christian counterpart, because its computation is still based on the Julian calendar. I realize I don’t have many Paskha-themed recipes,…
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A note about my restaurant reviews: New York City counts many Eastern European restaurants scattered across the five boroughs, most of them ignored by restaurant critics and diners alike. I intend to visit…
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During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to…
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I’ve been seeing those large monkfish livers at the Union Square Greenmarket for quite a while, but I hadn’t had the chance to fit them into my dinner plans — until recently. Monkfish is…