Keuka Lake Fishing

Keuka Lake Fishing and Lake Trout Tartare

On a visit to the Finger Lakes last weekend, we spent a morning trout fishing on Keuka Lake with Fisherman John. When he’s not teaching freshwater angling and fly fishing at Cornell University, John is on the lakes nearly every other day all year long, and you can trust him to figure where and when the action […]

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Crimean Fishcakes with Mussel Sabayon and Tomato Compote

Crimean Fishcakes with Mussel Sabayon and Tomato Compote

Here’s another recipe made with seafood that can be found in Crimea: skate, shrimp, and mussels. (See also my Crimean Seafood Orzo). Following Ukrainian cuisine’s propensity for all things ground, the fish and the shrimp are minced to form nice little round patties. The vibrantly yellow mussel sabayon packs a lot of bivalve flavor which complements […]

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Tarkhun, Tarragon Soda

Tarragon soda was invented by Mitrofan Lagidze in Tbilisi in 1887, and I already talked about Lagidze’s beverages here, in another post. But it wasn’t until 1981 that Soviet Union started mass production and gave Tarkhun (whose name is derived from the word for tarragon in Georgian and other languages from around the Caucasus) its distinctive […]

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Crab and Buckwheat Stuffed Veal Chop

Here’s a recipe with no particular source of inspiration other than some traditional Eastern European ingredients — the buckwheat, the potatoes — and techniques — pounding and stuffing the meat. I love surf and turf dishes, and veal’s mild flavor makes it particularly suitable for seafood pairings. The mouth-watering green apple purée goes admirably with veal, crab and […]

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Russian Food - Salmon Coulibiac

Salmon Coulibiac

Originally, a kulebyaka was a closed pie filled with several layers, often separated with pancakes to prevent mixing. The dish could be served at any time during the meal, and fillings consisted of almost anything, including meat, fish, mushrooms, onions, cabbage, buckwheat, hard-boiled eggs — sweet ingredients to create a dessert pie weren’t unheard of either. However, it […]

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Rabbit, Bacon and Spring Vegetable Bouchées

With the first asparagus, ramps and wild mushrooms available at the market, spring has definitely arrived! I am combining the first vegetables of the season with rabbit and bacon to create a light, bottomless bouchée. (In contract, some of you may remember the wintry Wild Boar Bouchées.) Ramps may be native to North America, but […]

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Walnut-Stuffed Eggplant Rolls

In Georgia, walnut-stuffed eggplant rolls are almost as popular as khachapuri. In Abkhazia, too, apparently, as I adapted this recipe from an Abkhaz cookbook! These rolls make for a very satisfying appetizer, and the filling strikes the perfect balance between spices, fresh herbs, moist onions and rich walnuts. My partner doesn’t even like eggplant, and […]

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