Tokaji Wine Review: Királyudvar Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them. Királyudvar, which means the […]

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Spring Onion and Garlic Jam

Here’s an easy first recipe to mark the arrival of spring: buy every possible variety of spring onions, shallots, and garlic (including garlic scapes) at your local farmers’ market and turn them into this delicious jam. Onion and garlic jam may not be your go-to choice for breakfast, but it’s much milder than you might think, […]

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Azerbaijan - Baku - Mugam Club Restaurant

Azerbaijan Adventures, Part 3

Adventure is a big word for today’s post. Sure, it mostly takes place in caravanserais and some of the meals were of epic proportions, but I’m still just talking about restaurants and food. After our short trip to Nakhchivan, nest of spies, we’re back in Baku, ready to enjoy the opportunity to eat something other than lamb […]

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Happy Novruz!

Wishing you all a happy Novruz! I am including some pictures of President Ilham Aliyev and First Lady Mehriban Aliyeva taking part in the festivities in Baku, eating plov (above) or drinking tea with the traditional sweets (below). I realize that Food Perestroika’s repertoire of Azeri cuisine is somewhat limited at the moment (the most notable […]

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Venison Goulash and Potato Varenyky

With this recipe, I’m killing two old Eastern European birds with one stone. The combination isn’t just a gimmick, though; the two dishes actually work really well together! The venison goulash uses one of the forelegs of the deer I killed last season. This is not a Hungarian gulyás, but rather the kind of winter […]

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Veal-Stuffed Lardo “Ravioli” with Chanterelles and Corn Purée

Here’s a recipe that perfectly illustrates Food Perestroika’s mission. Its Eastern European character is visible in the ingredients and the preparation: with the Mangalica lardo, the chanterelles, the corn, and the faux ravioli, we’re somewhere between Hungary and Ukraine. And yet these elements have been rearranged into a new, original dish. The Mangalica breed of pig, […]

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Vladimir Putin

What Does Vladimir Putin Eat?

As you may have read in the media, Vladimir Putin invited foreign journalists for a dinner-interview at his dacha near Moscow last week. We got the usual report of his highly predictable views on the elections, the opposition, corruption in Russia, the situation in Syria, relationships with the US, etc… But instead of reporting answers […]

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Restaurant Review: Krolewskie Jadlo

A note about my restaurant reviews: New York City counts many Eastern European restaurants scattered across the five boroughs, most of them ignored by restaurant critics and diners alike. I intend to visit as many as I can and report! Krolewskie Jadło, in Greenpoint, is easy to find. Not just thanks to its proximity to the […]

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Partridge Schnitzel and Meatball, Red Pepper Sauce, Corn and Zucchini

Hungary is a game paradise! Partridges (fogoly in magyar) are plentiful, for example, and they’re usually hunted in corn fields. This recipe combines the bird and its feed, with delicious results. The partridge is prepared two ways — as a schnitzel and a meatball. You can’t find Hungarian partridge for sale in the U.S., but […]

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