Partridge Schnitzel and Meatball, Red Pepper Sauce, Corn and Zucchini

Hungary is a game paradise! Partridges (fogoly in magyar) are plentiful, for example, and they’re usually hunted in corn fields. This recipe combines the bird and its feed, with delicious results. The partridge is prepared two ways — as a schnitzel and a meatball. You can’t find Hungarian partridge for sale in the U.S., but […]


Pepper Dolma

It may be hard to imagine when you’re eating lamb kebab after lamb kebab in Azerbaijan, but there are a lot more dishes in the national culinary repertoire.  In Baku, you can reasonably expect to find excellent meat dolma, which are vegetables (peppers, tomatoes, zucchinis or onions) stuffed with a mixture of rice and ground […]


My First Deer, and Bohemian Venison Burgers

Victory! After spending about 11 hours freezing on a stand at the top of a hill in the Mohawk Valley countryside, silently watching this field: I killed my first deer, on the season opening day just before sunset! The young, antlerless buck showed up at about 200 yards, near the trees you see at the […]


Kurnik, Russian Chicken Pot Pie

Kurnik, a kind of Russian chicken pot pie, is akin to a coulibiac where the fish is replaced with poultry — the name of the dish derives from the Russian word for chicken. Elena Molokhovets’ seminal A Gift to Young Housewives gives a recipe containing kasha and hardboiled eggs, but my starting point comes from Darra Goldstein’s […]


Crab and Buckwheat Stuffed Veal Chop

Here’s a recipe with no particular source of inspiration other than some traditional Eastern European ingredients — the buckwheat, the potatoes — and techniques — pounding and stuffing the meat. I love surf and turf dishes, and veal’s mild flavor makes it particularly suitable for seafood pairings. The mouth-watering green apple purée goes admirably with veal, crab and […]

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