Lamb Testicle Chashushuli and Cheese Khinkali

I seem to be going through an “extreme offal” phase. Only a few weeks ago, I was writing about veal brains, and here I am striking back, this time below the belt! I found these lamb testicles from 3-Corner Field Farm at the Union Square Greenmarket a few weeks ago, and figured that lamb offal […]

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Pepper Dolma

It may be hard to imagine when you’re eating lamb kebab after lamb kebab in Azerbaijan, but there are a lot more dishes in the national culinary repertoire.  In Baku, you can reasonably expect to find excellent meat dolma, which are vegetables (peppers, tomatoes, zucchinis or onions) stuffed with a mixture of rice and ground […]

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My First Deer, and Bohemian Venison Burgers

Victory! After spending about 11 hours freezing on a stand at the top of a hill in the Mohawk Valley countryside, silently watching this field: I killed my first deer, on the season opening day just before sunset! The young, antlerless buck showed up at about 200 yards, near the trees you see at the […]

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Kurnik, Russian Chicken Pot Pie

Kurnik, a kind of Russian chicken pot pie, is akin to a coulibiac where the fish is replaced with poultry — the name of the dish derives from the Russian word for chicken. Elena Molokhovets’ seminal A Gift to Young Housewives gives a recipe containing kasha and hardboiled eggs, but my starting point comes from Darra Goldstein’s […]

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Crab and Buckwheat Stuffed Veal Chop

Here’s a recipe with no particular source of inspiration other than some traditional Eastern European ingredients — the buckwheat, the potatoes — and techniques — pounding and stuffing the meat. I love surf and turf dishes, and veal’s mild flavor makes it particularly suitable for seafood pairings. The mouth-watering green apple purée goes admirably with veal, crab and […]

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Lamb Shanks Ufa

My series of dishes named after Eastern Bloc cities and regions has taken you to Dubrovnik, Vojvodina, Telavi, and now… Ufa, the capital of Bashkiria. The Bashkirs, just like the Tatars who also live there, are a Turkic ethnic group. As I was browsing in the aisles of the NYU library recently, I realized that not only did Bashkiria release […]

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