A note about my restaurant reviews: New York City counts many Eastern European restaurants scattered across the five boroughs, most of them ignored by restaurant critics and diners alike. I intend to visit as many as I can and report!
Rego Park, in Queens, is one of the very few places in the western world where you’ll find a high density of Uzbek restaurants, thanks to the sizeable Bukharan Jewish population. As in Brighton Beach, you can choose the amount of cheesiness you want with your meal — from a little, usually in the tacky decor, to a ton, if you choose the Saturday night deluxe banquet at your favorite palace.
Cheburechnaya is one of the prominent neighborhood joints that doesn’t come with any kind of live music or other bombastic show. In fact, with its drop ceiling and its long refrigerated window against the wall (which showcases the kebabs), it looks more like a cafeteria. A cafeteria that also serves wine and vodka if you ask nicely.