Nesselrode, Part 2: the Restaurateur, the Old-Timers, and their Pie

You might remember the story of the Nesselrode Pudding; or, how Paris’ best pastry chef created a dessert for the Russian occupants while working for that turncoat Talleyrand. But perhaps your senile great-grandparents have fondly reminisced about a popular dessert of their New York youth, a symbol of a bygone era, in a slightly different format: the Nesselrode […]

read

2014’s Spring Turkey, and Wild Turkey Emulsion Sausages

During deer hunting season last fall, when Huntsman Stan mentioned that he’d had a success rate of 100% during the 2013 spring turkey season, I was a bit skeptical. I’ve seen firsthand how hard it can be to find those gobblers and bring them into gun range, and yet there was Stan, telling me he […]

read

Red Alert: Alternative Schnitzels

Red Alert! Random Eastern European dishes are invading our streets and restaurants! Should you duck and cover, or welcome the enemy? Zagat says alternative schnitzels are trendy in NYC. For proof, the duck schnitzel at The Marrow: When Harold Dieterle reached for his mallet at newly opened West Village joint The Marrow, he didn’t start hammering veal […]

read

Learning to Hunt

As a big fan of game meat, I find it very frustrating that the only game meat that can be sold in the United States — and therefore the only kind that the vast majority of people ever gets to eat — is farmed and not wild. This goes against the very definition of the word […]

read