Tokaji Wine Review: Royal Tokaji Essencia 1999

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

Tokaji Wine - Royal Tokaji Essencia 1999

Located in Mád (only a few hundred feet from Úri BorokRoyal Tokaji has played an important role in Tokaj’s recent history. As its web site mentions, it was “the first foreign company established in the Tokaji wine region in 1990″. Its co-founder Hugh Johnson, who modestly calls himself “the world’s best known wine writer”, is just as modestly immortalized with a bronze bust in the courtyard of the winery, a former Diocesan Bishop’s residence. Still according to the web site, “following this leap of faith, others followed and the renaissance of Tokaji began”. Of course, considering Tokaj’s centuries-old reputation and the rush of foreign investments throughout Eastern Europe in the early nineties, one could argue this was really just a small leap.

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Tokaji Wine Review: Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 4 And 6 Puttonyos 2000

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

Tokaj - Disznókő Winery

Disznókő is a winery located on the road between Tokaj and Szerencs. It’s usually the first landmark winery that visitors to the region will pass, if driving here from Budapest. The name means “boar stone” in Hungarian, and here’s the story behind the name of the winery, from their website:

The hill behind the Yellow Wine House, where there are still stake supported vines on the secular terraces, is the heart of the Disznókő vineyard. Reaching the top of the hill we can see a small white pavilion, the belvedere. The Lónyai family had it built in the 18thcentury and meant it to be a lookout tower. There is the famous stone called Disznókő beside it. A giant rock that looks as if it had come from the sky. According to the local people’s stories the shape of the rock reminded of a wild boar some time in the past. The slope and the estate were named after this rock.

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Tokaji Wine Review: Árvay Hétfürtös Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

 Arvay Hétfürtös Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos 1999

János Árvay is a heavyweight in the Tokaj region. After working for the state wine company during communism, then for Disznókő after privatization, he started his own winery and was named Tokaj’s Winemaker of the Year in 2000 and Hungary’s Winemaker of the Year in 2003. Of course, with two exceptional vintages in 1999 and 2000, this wasn’t a bad time to make a name for oneself.

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Tokaji Wine Review: Tokaj Classic Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

Hungary - Tokaji Wine - Tokaj Classic
Tokaj Classic Winery is located in the village of Mád, in the heart of the wine-producing region, and owns parcels in the Király, Betsek, and Juharos vineyards. It is the second of two wineries founded by three musicians from the Hessen State Theatre in Wiesbaden, Germany. According to their website, the prodigal Hungarian András Bruhács got together with his two German colleagues and refurbished the generations-old Bruhács family winery in Pécs, a wine-growing region in a different part of the country. They dubbed it Villa Makár, after the nearby mountain. Since they were already doing that anyway, it would seem, they also decided to plant their flag in Tokaj-Hegyalja. This was in the early 1990′s during privatization, when it was much easier for outsiders to buy up historic land than it would be today. (Check out the picture of the owners in tuxedos brandishing bottles of Tokaji on their Facebook page!)

Hungary - Tokaji Wine - Tokaj Classic

When we visited back in 2007, I believe the winery was open for tastings by appointment only. We had managed to arrange a visit, and were greeted by Imre Galambosi, the chief winemaker and former mayor of Mád, on a quiet morning just after Christmas. To this day, I clearly remember the moment after the very interesting tour when he basically told us we could try any of the wines in the barrels in front of us, like kids let loose in a chocolate factory! (At the time, the Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2006 had promised to be excellent. As it should hit the market pretty soon, I’m curious to see how it turned out.)

Hungary - Tokaji Wine - Tokaj Classic

Meanwhile, the Tokaj Classic Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000, available on the US market, received a score of 96 in the Wine Spectator and a gold medal at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in 2004. Its medium amber color is darker than many other aszús of the same vintage. The nose reveals apricot and tropical fruit (guava maybe?), and the palate confirms this impression, with extra notes of caramel and tangerine. This is definitely a very good wine, but not as rich as some of its peers — if I was paid to split a hair one hundred ways, I would probably give it slightly less than 96.

Hungary - Tokaji Wine - Tokaj Classic

At the very least, it seriously makes me look forward to trying that 2006 bottling…

Cherry and Pistachio Gratin with Cherry Kompot

During cherry season, try this yummy dessert that I’ve adapted from Silvena Rowe’s Feasts — though Rowe mentions getting it from Carmel Pince, ”possibly the best Jewish restaurant in Budapest.” In other words, it’s far enough removed now that if you were to show this post to Carmel’s chef, he’d probably vehemently deny having created anything remotely like it.

While cherries (especially sour ones) are very popular in Hungary, the pistachios illustrate the culinary influence of the Ottoman Empire that ruled the region in the 16th and 17th centuries. I complement this simple but delicious gratin with a cherry kompot, a beverage widely prepared in Eastern Europe as a way of preserving fruit for the winter.

The dessert makes about 6 servings, but this depends on the size of your ramekins. I’ve played with various sizes and form factors, and the top picture shows 3″ diameter ramekins (containing slightly over 3 fl oz), while the bottom one feature a 3″x5″ oval (with a capacity of about 5 fl oz).

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Tokaji Wine Review: Királyudvar Tokaji Pezsgő Henye 2007

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

I’ve already introduced the Királyudvar winery in a recent post. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that they’ve started making sparkling wine, and that it’s available, albeit with limited distribution, on the U.S. market. After a field trip to PJ Wine in Inwood, I became the proud owner of a bottle of 2007 pezsgő (sparkler in Hungarian).

Back in the communist days, sparkling wine, like many other things, was an affair of dubious quality. Sure, it was regularly decided to increase production at a frantic pace to give the masses the appearance of a happy, festive life, but wine-growing and fabrication methods weren’t much of a concern. The only producer in Hungary was Törley, and their production reached 30 million bottles annually by the end of the 1980s — not bad for a country with 10 million inhabitants. For those with a very, very sweet tooth, Törley’s offerings included a sweet Tokaji sparkler. (As a matter of fact, they still do, and it’s even imported in the U.S.! I’m tempted to buy a bottle for old times’ sake, and to write about it.)

Nowadays, a handful of producers have realized that making a sparkling Tokaji isn’t necessarily a bad idea, and that it doesn’t have to be attrociously sweet. Királyudvar’s Tokaji Pezsgő 2007 was the first sparkling wine produced by the winery, and it’s definitely dry. The grapes, a blend of furmint and harslevelű, come exclusively from the Henye vineyard.

The tasting revealed none of the orange blossom and apple aromas mentioned on Királyudvar’s web site. This wine has evolved quite a bit, and I find lemon and a hint of grapefruit on both the nose and the palate. This is a pleasant wine, without being as outstanding as the winery’s aszú bottlings. And at around $25 a bottle, I consider it a viable alternative to champagne — it’s certainly better than the Spanish, Italian, or German sparkling wines I’ve tried, and I’ll keep my rant about Champagne-champagne for another time.

Henye vineyard, photo © Királyudvar

Tokaji Wine Review: Úri Borok Eszencia 2006

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

First of all, Tokaji Eszencia is a very peculiar kind of wine. In fact, it’s hardly a wine at all, since its sugar level is so high that it greatly impairs fermentation — a  high-alcohol eszencia barely rises to 5-6%, and only after several years. This sweet nectar is simply the juice of botrytized (aszú) berries that runs off from the vats in which they are collected. Its sugar concentration exceeds 500 grams per liter, which makes it difficult to drink in large amounts, as it coats your throat with the same intense sensation you feel when drinking, say, syrup (if you happen to drink maple syrup). It’s unfortunately not visible in photos, but it also looks quite viscous in the glass.

I talked about Úri Borok in one of my recent posts. Vince Gergely’s Eszencia 2006 is rather extreme. For a start, it didn’t ferment at all! The very artisanal label, which was filled out and glued on by hand in front of me, reads 0% alcohol. Then, it was so sweet that some of it crystallized inside the bottle. Depending on whether you’re a bottle-half-empty or bottle-half-full person, you could say I got ripped off for paying full price for half the expected liquid content, or you could see an opportunity. Forget Serendipity 3′s $1000 Golden Opulence Sundae, which any moron could replicate for a fraction of the price, imagine the possibilities of the crystallized Tokaji Eszencia dessert! Not only have I never seen any other crystallized Eszencia, I’m also pretty sure this one is sold out. Of course, you could cheat and use an evaporator, but you would still end up with the most exclusive dessert in the world (“exclusive” being a sanctimonious way to say crazy expensive).

As for the tasting impressions, the lack of alcohol makes the nose very intense, with aromas of apricot preserves and sultanas. The taste is just as strong, and it’s a good idea to take a very little sip and let it roll around in your mouth with some saliva, perhaps while contemplating that $10,000 dessert you could make with the (literally) residual sugar.

A shot from one of my trips to the caves at Úri Borok

Tokaji Wine Review: Királyudvar Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000

During numerous trips to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region in Hungary, I’ve had the opportunity to taste hundreds of Tokaji dessert wines, and I’ve managed to build a small personal collection. With no great claim to being a sommelier, I will share with you my impressions about the wines, and stories about the people who make them.

Királyudvar, which means the king’s court in Hungarian, is probably the most renowned of all Tokaji producers. The reason is simple: it makes some of the very best wines and exports to North America, Europe, and Asia.  Located in a 16th century wine-press house in the village of Tarcal, the winery was founded in 1997 and owns parcels in the Lapis, Henye, Percze, Becsek, Danczka, and Nyulászó vineyards. Until 2008, the wines were produced by István Szepsy.

I read on their web site that the winery is now open to the public for tastings, and this is great news. Back in 2004 when we visited, things were a bit more complicated. Only professional visits were accepted. We were tipped off that a group had an appointment the next morning, and that Szepsy, being a sympathetic man, would probably not turn down a couple of enthusiastic tourists looking to tag along. This also meant that we had the grand tasting, a 2-3 hour affair from the dry Furmints to the super-sweet Aszú Eszencia — just count the bottles in the picture below! To this day, this remains one of the greatest tastings I’ve ever had.

Made up of 70% Furmint and 30% Hárslevelű, the Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000, we are told, “has a classic Tokaji nose”, and I couldn’t agree more. The golden amber wine smells of caramel and mixed tropical fruits, mostly pineapple and mango. The day after opening, the nose develops into more caramel, with apricot preserves replacing some of the tropical fruits. A perfect example of the outstanding 2000 vintage.

Veal-Stuffed Lardo “Ravioli” with Chanterelles and Corn Purée

Here’s a recipe that perfectly illustrates Food Perestroika’s mission. Its Eastern European character is visible in the ingredients and the preparation: with the Mangalica lardo, the chanterelles, the corn, and the faux ravioli, we’re somewhere between Hungary and Ukraine. And yet these elements have been rearranged into a new, original dish.

The Mangalica breed of pig, the only kind with long, curly hair, is especially popular in Hungary. It is descended directly from wild boar, and is renowned for producing large and round animals well suited for making lard.  To form the ravioli, you will need to find either lardo that is wide enough, or very fatty bacon — I bought mine at Eataly.

Lazy Boris’ Corner:
If you replace the ground veal with more braised veal meat, the texture of the ravioli filling will be less interesting but still delicious.
In the corn purée (a recipe inspired by what we did at Danube), you can save an hour by substituting water for the corn stock.

Braised veal and stock
Yields about 6 servings plus some leftover meat

1 lb veal osso buco (shank)
salt
black pepper, ground
olive oil
2 oz peeled carrot, large dice
2 oz peeled celery root, large dice
4 oz peeled onion, large dice
1 garlic clove, chopped
2 thyme sprigs
1 clove
4 oz red wine
14 oz water

  • Season the veal with salt and pepper. Sauté with olive oil in a small oven-safe pot over high heat until brown on all sides, then set aside.
  • In the same pot, cook the carrot, celery root, onion, and garlic for 2-3 minutes. Add the thyme, clove, and red wine, and simmer until reduced by half. Add the water and the meat, bring back to a simmer, and cover with a lid slightly ajar. Cook in a 200 F oven for 6 hours, until very tender. Let cool.
  • Take out the veal from the liquid, remove the bones, and reserve the meat with the bone marrow.
  • Pass the stock through a chinois and reserve.

Corn purée
Yields about 6 servings

2 ears of corn
12 oz water
1/2 oz butter
salt

  • Separate the kernels from the corn cobs, and reserve.
  • Cut the bare corn cobs in halves, and place into a small saucepan with the water. Cover with a lid, and boil over medium heat for one hour.
  • Pass the corn stock through a chinois and discard the cobs. At this point, you should have about 7.5 oz kernels and 5 oz stock — make sure you keep this ratio.
  • Place the kernels and the stock in the saucepan, cover and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes.
  • Transfer to a blender, add the butter and salt, and process until smooth. Pass the purée through a chinois, and reserve.

Assembly
Yields about 6 servings

stock from braised veal
1 oz peeled scallion whites, thinly sliced
1/2 oz butter
3 oz ground veal
3 oz braised veal meat
paper-thin slices of Mangalica lardo or very fatty bacon (for amount, see below)
corn purée
5 oz cleaned chanterelles
1 tbsp extra-light olive oil
salt
2 tbsp thinly sliced scallion greens

  • In a saucepan over high heat, reduce the stock from the braised veal to 2 oz, and reserve.
  • In a small saucepan, saute the scallion whites in the butter over medium heat until transluscent. Add the ground veal, and cook until barely done, stirring regularly. Shred the braised veal meat into small pieces (for the mathematicians, that’s about 0.25″), stir into the saucepan with the reduced stock, and cook over low heat until  the liquid has evaporated but the mixture still looks very moist.
  • Cut the lardo or bacon slices into 1.5″ x 2″ rectangles. This is what determines how many slices you need for the recipe — you need to be able to cut 6 such rectangles per serving. You can cut some pieces slightly longer and use them for the top layers.
  • Reheat the corn purée in a saucepan.
  • Sauté the chanterelles in the olive oil in a pan over high heat, season with salt, and cook until soft. Sprinkle with the scallion greens.
  • Assemble the “ravioli” on warm plates: place one rectangle of lardo on the plate, top with some veal mixture, and cover with another rectangle (slightly larger if possible). Repeat for additional ravioli. Finish plating with the corn purée and the mushrooms.

Partridge Schnitzel and Meatball, Red Pepper Sauce, Corn and Zucchini

Hungary is a game paradise! Partridges (fogoly in magyar) are plentiful, for example, and they’re usually hunted in corn fields. This recipe combines the bird and its feed, with delicious results. The partridge is prepared two ways — as a schnitzel and a meatball.

You can’t find Hungarian partridge for sale in the U.S., but you can buy Scottish red-legged partridge from D’Artagnan. Obviously, the birds you get won’t necessarily be the same size as the ones I’m using here. For the meatballs, scale the ingredients up or down accordingly.

Red pepper sauce
Yields 4 servings

16 oz sliced red peppers
3 oz sliced shallots
1 oz olive oil
11 oz tomatoes, large dice
salt
pepper

  • Process the red peppers in a blender until smooth. Pass through a chinois, and reserve.
  • Sauté the shallots in olive oil until translucent. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes, stirring frequently.
  • Add the red pepper liquid and simmer for another 30 minutes.
  • Process in a blender, pass through a chinois, and reserve.

Partridge fabrication
Yields 4 servings

2 partridges, about 12 oz each

  • Separate the wings, legs and breasts. Pick the meat off the wings, legs and carcasses, and refrigerate.
  • Discard the skin and silverskin from the breasts. Pound to a 4″ or 5″ diameter disc between 2 pieces of plastic wrap, and refrigerate.

Partridge meatballs
Yields 4 servings

1 oz bread, crust removed
1/2 cup milk
2 oz shallot, sliced
1 tbsp butter
8 oz partrige meat (from the wings, legs, and carcasses)
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp Hungarian sweet paprika
1/4 tsp thyme leaves
1 egg, beaten
canola oil
red pepper sauce

  • Soak the bread in the milk for 20 minutes, then squeeze the milk out and chop coarsely.
  • Sweat the shallot in the butter until translucent, and let cool.
  • Grind the partridge meat once with the medium die. Place into a bowl and mix in the bread, shallots, salt, pepper, paprika and thyme. Grind the resulting forcemeat again, with medium die, then add the beaten egg, rectify the seasoning and mix well. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
  • In a large saucepan bring the red pepper sauce to a simmer.
  • In a deep pot, heat the canola oil to 375 F. Shape the forcemeat into 4 meatballs, and deep-fry until brown.
  • Take the meatballs out of the oil, dry on paper towels, and add to the red pepper sauce. Simmer for 45 minutes, then let cool and reserve.

Corn and zucchini
Yields 4 servings

1 corn ear, in husk
salt
pepper
4 oz zucchini, small dice
1 oz butter

  • Cook the corn in its husk in salted boiling water for 20 minutes. Let cool and cut the kernels off the ear.
  • Cut the zucchini into small dice, roughly the size of the corn kernels. Sauté in a saucepan with the butter, season with salt and pepper, and cook until it starts to brown. Dry on a paper towel.
  • Mix the corn and zucchini, and reserve.

Assembly
Yields 4 servings

partridge meatballs in red pepper sauce
corn and zucchini
1/2 oz butter
canola oil (for deep-frying)
3 oz flour
1 egg, beaten
6 oz breadcrumbs
partridge breasts
salt
black pepper, ground
1 oz brown butter, warm
4 lemon segments, membrane removed

  • Reheat the meatballs in a saucepan.
  • Reheat the corn and zucchini with a little bit of butter in a saucepan.
  • Heat the canola oil to 375 F in a deep-fryer. Place the flour, egg, and breadcrumbs in three separate bowls. Season the partridge breasts with salt and pepper. Dredge each piece with flour, then coat with egg and cover with breadcrumbs on both sides. Deep fry in the oil until lightly golden, then drain on paper towels. It’s important to remove the schnitzels before they get too dark. I find that partridge is best eaten medium. You definitely don’t want to overcook it, or it will get dry. Brush each piece with brown butter.
  • Dress the plates as pictured, including lemon segments on top, and serve immediately.