Roumanian Steak and its Accompaniments, from Romania and Beyond

Roumanian Steak and its Accompaniments, from Romania and Beyond

Inspired by my most recent visit to Sammy’s Roumanian and, posthumously, by a dinner at the now defunct Kutsher’s Tribeca, I decided to try my hand at the Romanian tenderloin — that intriguing dish that’s neither really Romanian (do you know how they call a restaurant that serves properly cooked steaks in Romania? An American steakhouse), nor […]

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Marinated Wild Mushrooms

Just like picking fruit and making preserves, gathering mushrooms and marinating them is a Russian classic. The weekend pastime harkens back to a time when communist citizens were free from the dictatorship of consumerism and social networks, and Muscovites could enjoy the simple comforts of their suburban datchas without spending hours in traffic jams and […]

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Veal-Stuffed Lardo “Ravioli” with Chanterelles and Corn Purée

Here’s a recipe that perfectly illustrates Food Perestroika’s mission. Its Eastern European character is visible in the ingredients and the preparation: with the Mangalica lardo, the chanterelles, the corn, and the faux ravioli, we’re somewhere between Hungary and Ukraine. And yet these elements have been rearranged into a new, original dish. The Mangalica breed of pig, […]

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Sweetbread and Chanterelle Tartlets

One of the things that first got me interested in exploring Eastern European cooking was the great potential for what high-end Hungarian cuisine could be. To help illustrate this, I adapted a recipe from Le Camélia in Bougival, France. We start with a trio of Hungarian ingredients: wild mushrooms, offals and paprika. Of course one might object that […]

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