Russian Food - Russian Seafood Plateau

Russian Plateau de Fruits de Mer

This is one of my recurring ramblings: why do we see so little shellfish in Russian restaurants outside of Russia? Oh sure, you can have seafood fettuccine, lobster bisque, snails in garlic sauce, or softshell crabs at Tatiana or Volna in Brooklyn. Maybe even some shrimp cocktail and mussels vaguely marinières. But only in the lengthy salad section of […]

read
Pasta-Caviar Duo

Russian Pasta-Caviar Duo, Moscow-New York

It all begins about 20 years ago in Moscow. There aren’t that many noteworthy restaurants in the Russian capital yet. I don’t know if Pizzeria San Marco, on the Arbat, really counts as noteworthy (it just serves pizza and pasta), but hey, it’s near the small apartment where I’m staying, and in the middle of the economic […]

read
Signature Russian Amuse-Bouche: Potato Chip, King Crab, Brains, and Caviar

Signature Russian Amuse-Bouche: Potato Chip, King Crab, Brains, and Caviar

Here’s a bite-sized dish to kick-off the holiday season in style! This very Russian combination seamlessly mixes poor and rich man’s ingredients, with potato and brains on one hand, and king crab and sturgeon caviar on the other. It’s not the first time I’ve paired crab and caviar (see here), and I’ve also posted recipes for pork brains […]

read

Happy National Caviar Day!

That’s right, today is National Caviar Day. Once upon a time, New York City bars gave free caviar to their customers to keep them thirsty. Nowadays, of course, you’re unlikely to see restaurants handing over free spoonfuls of the black gold. Not even to mark today’s celebration (you can always try to persuade them; you […]

read
Cured Lake Trout Roe

Cured Lake Trout Roe

The icing on the cake when you catch your own fish is that you’ll get plenty of fish roe during spawning season — my last trip on Cayuga Lake alone brought almost a pound! Cured trout roe (personally, I don’t like calling it caviar unless it comes from a sturgeon) has become an increasingly expensive delicacy, with […]

read

Sturgeon Astrakhan

Here’s a decadent little recipe to take a break from your local / seasonal / sustainable routine. I named the dish after the city of Astrakhan in the Volga delta, (once) renowned for its rich sturgeon population. The idea is pretty simple: a thick piece of butter-poached, meaty sturgeon buried under spoonfuls of caviar. Obviously […]

read

King Crab Ravioli, Caviar and Vodka Cream

King crab, caviar and vodka: are there any ingredients that better exemplify haute Russian cuisine? I served this dish as a first course on New Year’s Eve. Enjoy with champagne (just not necessarily the Soviet kind)! For the pasta dough, I am using a modified version of Gordon Ramsay’s dough recipe. Stay away from dough recipes that […]

read