Azerbaijan - Baku - Mugam Club Restaurant

Azerbaijan Adventures, Part 3

Adventure is a big word for today’s post. Sure, it mostly takes place in caravanserais and some of the meals were of epic proportions, but I’m still just talking about restaurants and food. After our short trip to Nakhchivan, nest of spies, we’re back in Baku, ready to enjoy the opportunity to eat something other than lamb […]

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Road to Ordubad

Azerbaijan Adventures, Part 2

Reading about the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic in a travel book leaves you under the impression that the place suffers from acute spying paranoia. Here’s what the Traiblazer Azerbaijan Guide (now in its 4th edition) has to say: “while local people are very friendly and hospitable, the same can’t be said for the police and officials […]

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Ordubad - Shora Cheshme Restaurant - Kitchen

Azerbaijan Adventures, Part 1

It’s been a long time since I last posted about my adventures in the Caucasus, and the Azerbaijan stories promise to be plentiful. I’d like to start this series with a quintessential Azerbaijan experience: the outdoor restaurant. This humble place, which always follows the same principles whether you’re in the mountains, arid plains, or shady […]

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Stepanakert - Papik Tatik Monument

Armenian Adventures, Part 5

The last part of our Armenian Adventures takes us to Nagorno-Karabakh, a de facto independent but unrecognized state within Azerbaijan (I’m sticking to the Wikipedia entry to avoid debates). Before heading to Karabakh, we made one last stop at the Goris market and nearby stores, where the usual Armenian produce (peppers, eggplant, zucchini, beans, radishes, tomatoes, […]

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Geghard - Street Vendor

Armenian Adventures, Part 3

It would be impossible to talk about Armenia without mentioning its many monasteries, as they are doubtlessly the main attraction in the country. Since this is a food blog, I don’t intend to give you an exhaustive cultural tour, but here’s a little overview of the place of food and animals in Armenian monasteries, from […]

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Yerevan - Ararat Factory

Armenian Adventures, Part 2

After Part 1‘s visit to the Central Market, here are some more food-related pictures from the Armenian capital. Armenia has its fair share of Soviet relics, and the aptly named Victory Park is a good starting point for a visit. On a hill with not-so-breathtaking views of Yerevan, surrounded with war monuments, you’ll find the imposing […]

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Tbilisi - Gonashvili St. - Bakery

Georgian Adventures, Part 9

To conclude this Georgian Adventure series, here’s a look at the stores and markets of the capital city, Tbilisi. Soviet mosaics are an endangered species in Tbilisi. Here is a rare specimen from the Lagidze Café on Rustaveli Avenue. Lagidze is a popular brand of sodas and syrups created at the turn of the 20th […]

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Sukhum - Brigantina Mosaic

Georgian Adventures, Part 8

In our previous adventures, we entered Abkhazia, an almost-country that already has a language with a funky Cyrillic alphabet, a flag worthy of a banana republic, a warmongering emblem, a dead president (Vladislav Ardzinba, below), and authoritarian-looking billboards: Not to mention some of the most accomplished Soviet bus stop architecture: And some very Soviet-looking attractions, […]

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