Russian Food - Moscow - LavkaLavka

Moscow Rules, Part 4: LavkaLavka

In the heart of Moscow, on Petrovka Street, LavkaLavka is both the leading champion of Russia’s locavore, farm-to-table movement, and a promoter of new Russian cuisine. It also glorifies a concept applied by many, though seldom so explicitly: selective gastronomic amnesia. We are not trying to recreate 17th century cuisine, although we want to know […]

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Tatar Cuisine - Kazan Chay Bar

Moscow Rules, Part 3: Kazan Chay Bar

At first glance, Kazan Chay Bar looks like an inconspicuous Tatar restaurant in Moscow’s Zamoskvorechye District, an area that has seen a surge in office building construction over the past few years. But pay closer attention and you’ll notice that it’s located on Little Tatar Lane; near Tatar Street, the Old Mosque of Moscow, and a […]

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Moscow - White Rabbit

Moscow Rules, Part 2: White Rabbit

Perched on the top of the Smolensky Passage, under a sort of glass dome, a few steps away from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Arbat, White Rabbit is named after the famous rodent in Lewis Carroll’s Alice In Wonderland, which provides inspiration for most of the interior design. The restaurant is both aptly positioned […]

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Bukhara - Ceramics

Uzbek Adventures, Part 4: Bukhara

Returning to Uzbekistan after a sojourn in Tajikistan feels a little bit like reaching the promised land after crossing the desert. A Tajik desert with decrepit Soviet relics, hellish hotels, hellish roads, hellish tunnels, and teapots half-filled with adulterated booze, where the only direction locals can point you is to your very own nadir. If you […]

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Tashkent - National Food Restaurant

Uzbek Adventures, Part 3: Tashkent’s Eateries

In Lonely Planet‘s Central Asia travel guide, the Eating section for Tashkent starts as follows: “You’ll eat better in Tashkent than anywhere else in Uzbekistan and perhaps even than most of Central Asia as a whole.” Although the authors seem to take into consideration some Italian and sushi restaurants about which I couldn’t care less, […]

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Tashkent - Chorsu Bazaar - Produce

Uzbek Adventures, Part 2: Chorsu Bazaar

As I mentioned in my last post, Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent, doesn’t have the same touristic appeal as Samarkand or Bukhara. The 1966 earthquake caused massive destruction, and gave the USSR the opportunity to get rid of a good chunk of the old town, building in its stead a modern Soviet city with characteristic desolate avenues, occasional neoclassical […]

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