Russian Food - Russian Seafood Plateau

Russian Plateau de Fruits de Mer

This is one of my recurring ramblings: why do we see so little shellfish in Russian restaurants outside of Russia? Oh sure, you can have seafood fettuccine, lobster bisque, snails in garlic sauce, or softshell crabs at Tatiana or Volna in Brooklyn. Maybe even some shrimp cocktail and mussels vaguely marinières. But only in the lengthy salad section of […]

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Russian Food - Trout Broth with Pirozhki

Triple Steelhead Trout Broth with Gravlax and Pirozhki

I’ve said in the past that if you want to avoid crowds, the Monday after Thanksgiving is a good day to fish on the Salmon River. Well, here’s another quiet day to go fishing in the area: Mother’s Day. Real sentimental, those fishermen! Come the second Sunday of May, they leave their fishing rods in the […]

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Croatian Cuisine - Brodet

Brodet, Croatian Fish Stew

In most people’s consciousness, Eastern Europe does not evoke delicious seafood dishes. Apart from caviar or smoked fish (which most people actually eat rarely), the images that come to mind tend to be of thick brown meat stews and starchy dishes, or perhaps of various grilled meats and greasy sausages, washed down with a profusion of beer and other alcoholic beverages. And yet, […]

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Buckwheat Blini with Trout, Cabbage Sauce and Honey-Glazed Turnips

Buckwheat Blini with Trout and Chanterelles, Cabbage Sauce and Honey-Glazed Turnips

Steelhead season on the Salmon River was rather slow this year. A little bit like deer season, come to think of it, a consequence of two consecutive cold winters. Considering that I grouped my hunting and fishing outings into a single trip around Thanksgiving, it made for an uneventful and often frustrating ten days (except for the […]

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Pasta-Caviar Duo

Russian Pasta-Caviar Duo, Moscow-New York

It all begins about 20 years ago in Moscow. There aren’t that many noteworthy restaurants in the Russian capital yet. I don’t know if Pizzeria San Marco, on the Arbat, really counts as noteworthy (it just serves pizza and pasta), but hey, it’s near the small apartment where I’m staying, and in the middle of the economic […]

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Moravian Pike Goujonnettes, Bacon Sauce and Spring Vegetables

Moravian Pike Goujonnettes, Bacon Sauce and Spring Vegetables

When I last talked about my trip to Moravia, I didn’t actually give you many details about the fishing itself. Truth be told, I almost came home with nothing to recount at all. I had booked a full-day trip with Fisherman John, with the optimistic objective of targeting pike in the morning, and lake trout in the afternoon. […]

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Moravian Trout Rillettes and Tartare

Moravian Trout Tartare and Rillettes

True story: A couple weekends ago, I went fishing in rural Moravia. I caught a trout, picked up a bottle of Riesling from a nearby vineyard, came up with this recipe, inspired by local specialties, and got back home on Sunday night. Still, no jet lag, and no need to break the bank — I wasn’t in the Moravian […]

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Beet-Cured Steelhead

Beet-Cured Salmon River Steelhead

As I wrote a couple years ago, fishing the Salmon River in autumn can be pretty hectic. Thousands of fishermen, many of them about as clueless as me, crowd the river bed, the shores, and the bridges, occupying every inch of public land available. At the same time, anybody in a 50 mile radius who […]

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