Czech Cuisine - Finger Lakes Duck, Plum Sauce and Brussels Sprouts

Moravian Duck, Plum Sauce and Brussels Sprouts

Duck hunting season is just starting here in New York State, which is rather hard to imagine considering that we’re still running the air conditioners to fight off seemingly never-ending summer temperatures. Did the ducks really start migrating south when it’s just as warm now in October as it was in August? I’ll find out […]

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Croatian Cuisine - Pljeskavica

Croatian Pljeskavica

Last summer, I published my recipe for Bosnian Ćevapi with Kajmak, Ajvar, and Lepinja. Although I privately considered it the first chapter of a survey of grilled meat in former Yugoslavia, maybe even the whole of the Balkans, I preferred to avoid openly committing, as many of the previous posts that I decided to call […]

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Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Tartare

Triple Reindeer Tartare, Chanterelles, Potatoes and Chives

This is the second recipe I’m making using my stash of reindeer meat. After the recent Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur, here’s a triple reindeer tartare, with three different reindeer cuts and preparations: tartare-perfect tenderloin, super-smoky and salty cold-smoked reindeer fillet, and reindeer salami. The first tenderloin and fillet strike a kind of balance […]

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Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Fillet, Porcini and Lingonberry Bulgur

Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur

Last month, during a short business trip to Sweden, I visited Stockholm’s venerable Östermalms Saluhall, a food market operating since 1888. While the historic hall is currently closed for renovation, the market has been transplanted to another building nearby. I was searching for something very specific and quite unique, something that you can’t acquire in […]

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Czech Food - Svickova

Svíčková Na Smetaně, Czech Republic’s National Dish

Svíčková, which you might remember from my review of Bohemian Spirit Restaurant, is a curious dish. Take its name, for example. The recipe’s full name in Czech is svíčková na smetaně, meaning tenderloin with cream. Literally, svíčková means little candle, and is used to designate the tenderloin — because of its shape. Obviously. But in many cases, […]

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Eastern European Food - Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikas and Chanterelles

Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikás and Chanterelles

A long, long time ago, back in 2012, Daniel Humm’s roast chicken for two at the NoMad was all the rage in foodie circles, “talked about more avidly and incessantly than any other new restaurant offering in town” according to The New York Times. All of a sudden, the most boring protein of the restaurant […]

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Thousand Island Mallard Duck, Cabbage, Mushrooms

Thousand Island Mallard Duck, Cabbage, Mushrooms 2+2+2

It’s duck season again, and I’m back at the West View Lodge for a weekend of wing shooting. You may remember that I had some reservations about the amenities on my previous trip. Well, this time, Captain Bill really did give me his very best room. It’s located in a section of the building I didn’t […]

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Bosnian Ćevapi with Kajmak, Ajvar and Lepinja

Bosnian Ćevapi with Kajmak, Ajvar, and Lepinja

Recent visits to Yugo restaurants like Kafana left me craving more grilled meat. Something slightly different from my usual Caucasian and Central Asian kebab experiments, yet not completely unrelated — after all, the region was part of the Ottoman Empire for centuries. So this summer I decided to skip the trip to Buffalo and just make […]

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