Czech Cuisine - Giant Trout and Salmon Chlebíček

Giant Trout and Salmon Chlebíček

In Czech Republic, a chlebíček is just an open-faced sandwich. More often than not, what you’ll see is whole plates of assorted obložené chlebíčky (literally, garnished little breads), which give amateur cooks the opportunity to showcase their aesthetic leanings on little slices of bread, with complete disregard for practicality. Cured meat, cured fish, cheese, vegetables, herbs, pickles, egg, […]

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Czech Food - Svickova

Svíčková Na Smetaně, Czech Republic’s National Dish

Svíčková, which you might remember from my review of Bohemian Spirit Restaurant, is a curious dish. Take its name, for example. The recipe’s full name in Czech is svíčková na smetaně, meaning tenderloin with cream. Literally, svíčková means little candle, and is used to designate the tenderloin — because of its shape. Obviously. But in many cases, […]

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Eastern European Food - Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikas and Chanterelles

Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikás and Chanterelles

A long, long time ago, back in 2012, Daniel Humm’s roast chicken for two at the NoMad was all the rage in foodie circles, “talked about more avidly and incessantly than any other new restaurant offering in town” according to The New York Times. All of a sudden, the most boring protein of the restaurant […]

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Thousand Island Mallard Duck, Cabbage, Mushrooms

Thousand Island Mallard Duck, Cabbage, Mushrooms 2+2+2

It’s duck season again, and I’m back at the West View Lodge for a weekend of wing shooting. You may remember that I had some reservations about the amenities on my previous trip. Well, this time, Captain Bill really did give me his very best room. It’s located in a section of the building I didn’t […]

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Hungarian Food - Somlói Galuska

Somlói Galuska, Hungarian Dessert Dumplings

You’ve probably never heard of Somlói galuska, and yet it is one of the Magyars’ favorite desserts. For some unfathomable reason, it doesn’t even appear on the menu at André’s Café. The name translates as “Somló dumpling” in English, Somló being a town near Lake Balaton, famous (moderately) for its hill and its wine. Calling […]

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Russian Food - Russian Seafood Plateau

Russian Plateau de Fruits de Mer

This is one of my recurring ramblings: why do we see so little shellfish in Russian restaurants outside of Russia? Oh sure, you can have seafood fettuccine, lobster bisque, snails in garlic sauce, or softshell crabs at Tatiana or Volna in Brooklyn. Maybe even some shrimp cocktail and mussels vaguely marinières. But only in the lengthy salad section of […]

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Bosnian Ćevapi with Kajmak, Ajvar and Lepinja

Bosnian Ćevapi with Kajmak, Ajvar, and Lepinja

Recent visits to Yugo restaurants like Kafana left me craving more grilled meat. Something slightly different from my usual Caucasian and Central Asian kebab experiments, yet not completely unrelated — after all, the region was part of the Ottoman Empire for centuries. So this summer I decided to skip the trip to Buffalo and just make […]

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