Russian Cuisine - Osso Buco with Pumpkin Mousse and Dried Persimmon Sauce

Osso Buco with Pumpkin Mousse and Dried Persimmon Sauce

As is now customary for my Moscow Rules series, I’m following my review of farm-to-table cum New Russian restaurant LavkaLavka with a recipe inspired by a dish I ate there. This time, I’ve picked chef Vladimir Chistyakov’s osso buco with pumpkin mousse and dried persimmon sauce. I really liked the veal-pumpkin-persimmon pairing, and wanted to build on it […]


New Russian Brioche, Herring, and Foie Gras

To go with the Moscow Rules series of restaurant reports that I’ve recently started, I intend to create recipes that are directly inspired by or adapted from the dishes I ate during my visits to each restaurant. Consider this my first entry! In my last post, I talked about Moscow’s White Rabbit, its ambitious Chef […]

Tasty Map of Russia

The Tasty Map of Russia

Recently, while writing my post on shanga, the bread roll from the Great Russian North, I came across the Tasty Map of Russia. The project, started in 2012, aims to promote and develop tourism in all Russian regions through their culinary potential. Its creators had already employed a similar concept with the Fairy Tale Map of […]

Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Tartare

Triple Reindeer Tartare, Chanterelles, Potatoes and Chives

This is the second recipe I’m making using my stash of reindeer meat. After the recent Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur, here’s a triple reindeer tartare, with three different reindeer cuts and preparations: tartare-perfect tenderloin, super-smoky and salty cold-smoked reindeer fillet, and reindeer salami. The first tenderloin and fillet strike a kind of balance […]

Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Fillet, Porcini and Lingonberry Bulgur

Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur

Last month, during a short business trip to Sweden, I visited Stockholm’s venerable Östermalms Saluhall, a food market operating since 1888. While the historic hall is currently closed for renovation, the market has been transplanted to another building nearby. I was searching for something very specific and quite unique, something that you can’t acquire in […]

Russian Food - Russian Seafood Plateau

Russian Plateau de Fruits de Mer

This is one of my recurring ramblings: why do we see so little shellfish in Russian restaurants outside of Russia? Oh sure, you can have seafood fettuccine, lobster bisque, snails in garlic sauce, or softshell crabs at Tatiana or Volna in Brooklyn. Maybe even some shrimp cocktail and mussels vaguely marinières. But only in the lengthy salad section of […]

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