Russian Food - Russian Seafood Plateau

Russian Plateau de Fruits de Mer

This is one of my recurring ramblings: why do we see so little shellfish in Russian restaurants outside of Russia? Oh sure, you can have seafood fettuccine, lobster bisque, snails in garlic sauce, or softshell crabs at Tatiana or Volna in Brooklyn. Maybe even some shrimp cocktail and mussels vaguely marinières. But only in the lengthy salad section of […]

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Russian Food - Trout Broth with Pirozhki

Triple Steelhead Trout Broth with Gravlax and Pirozhki

I’ve said in the past that if you want to avoid crowds, the Monday after Thanksgiving is a good day to fish on the Salmon River. Well, here’s another quiet day to go fishing in the area: Mother’s Day. Real sentimental, those fishermen! Come the second Sunday of May, they leave their fishing rods in the […]

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Buckwheat Blini with Trout, Cabbage Sauce and Honey-Glazed Turnips

Buckwheat Blini with Trout and Chanterelles, Cabbage Sauce and Honey-Glazed Turnips

Steelhead season on the Salmon River was rather slow this year. A little bit like deer season, come to think of it, a consequence of two consecutive cold winters. Considering that I grouped my hunting and fishing outings into a single trip around Thanksgiving, it made for an uneventful and often frustrating ten days (except for the […]

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Pasta-Caviar Duo

Russian Pasta-Caviar Duo, Moscow-New York

It all begins about 20 years ago in Moscow. There aren’t that many noteworthy restaurants in the Russian capital yet. I don’t know if Pizzeria San Marco, on the Arbat, really counts as noteworthy (it just serves pizza and pasta), but hey, it’s near the small apartment where I’m staying, and in the middle of the economic […]

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Russian Food - Kefir

Kefir, the Probiotic Miracle from the Caucasus

Over the past decade or so, kefir, a kind of cultured milk sometimes described as a “tangy milk smoothie,” has gained popularity and conquered the shelves of American supermarkets. “Probiotic,” the labels proudly proclaim, as if that word — that word you’d never heard until that moment — should become your new mantra. After all, […]

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Blueberry-Chocolate Roll, Apple Sorbet, and Buckwheat Crème Anglaise

Blueberry-Chocolate Roll, Apple Sorbet, and Buckwheat Crème Anglaise

It all started with Irina Chadeyeva’s Vypechka po GOSTu, a compilation of Soviet era baking hits, from the Kiev cake to the kartoshka (each of which I’ve encountered here and here, respectively). Chadeyeva’s recipes, often named after cities from the four corners of the Empire, for reasons unknown, are backed up with nostalgic pictures of the […]

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Morel "Strudel" Shashlyk

Morel “Strudel” Kebabs and Vegetarian Plov

Here’s a recipe I’d like to share before morel season is well and truly over! Morels are among my favorite mushrooms, and even if some species are more flavorful than others, they rarely disappoint when they’re bought fresh and handled properly. And with two elements each calling for a generous amount of these delectable fungi, […]

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Beet-Cured Steelhead

Beet-Cured Salmon River Steelhead

As I wrote a couple years ago, fishing the Salmon River in autumn can be pretty hectic. Thousands of fishermen, many of them about as clueless as me, crowd the river bed, the shores, and the bridges, occupying every inch of public land available. At the same time, anybody in a 50 mile radius who […]

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Pike Roe

Pike, Buckwheat, and Green Apple Burger with Celery Root Gratin

The weather was bitterly cold that March morning, and whiteout conditions were looming. Only a handful of indomitable fishermen (us, obviously) had braved the elements and ventured out on the frozen lake, drilling holes through several feet of ice covered by about as much snow. The fishing was hard, but we persevered, and our efforts did […]

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