New Russian Elk, Sunchoke, and Truffle

New Russian Elk, Sunchoke, and Truffle

Another recipe inspired by my dinner at Moscow’s White Rabbit, this elk, sunchoke, and truffle dish is a much more classic pairing than, say, my previous brioche, herring, and foie gras, but I find it works beautifully – not least because I love game meat and sunchoke is my favorite root vegetable! While I didn’t […]

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New Russian Brioche, Herring, and Foie Gras

To go with the Moscow Rules series of restaurant reports that I’ve recently started, I intend to create recipes that are directly inspired by or adapted from the dishes I ate during my visits to each restaurant. Consider this my first entry! In my last post, I talked about Moscow’s White Rabbit, its ambitious Chef […]

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Lithuanian Food - Varškės Spurgos

Varškės Spurgos, Lithuanian Farmer Cheese Fritters

Nearly every country counts some kind of sweet fried dough among its desserts. Americans eat doughnuts, Indians have gulab jamun, the French make beignets, and I’ve already written about fritule, Dalmatian fritters. Lithuanians are no exception, and in his class on Eastern European desserts at the Institute of Culinary Education (which I have mentioned previously), Michael […]

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Croatian Food - Povitica

Povitica, Croatian Walnut Roll

Walnut rolls are common in many cuisines of Eastern Europe. Hungarians eat bejgli, Slovenians have potica, and Croatians make povitica, generally for Christmas and Easter. The dessert counts many variations: the layers can be thick or thin, the roll can be baked as a log or folded in a loaf pan, and poppy seeds can replace walnuts. […]

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Czech Food - Vánočka

Vánočka, Czech Christmas Bread

Many Europeans countries share the tradition of preparing a kind of sweet bread, often with dried fruits, for religious holidays. Germany has Stollen and Italy eats panettone, while Russia makes kulich and Poland and Ukraine bake babka. In Czech Republic (and Slovakia), there’s vánočka, a rich plaited bread served for Christmas (vánoce means Christmas in Czech). A […]

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Vis Island Pogača, or Dalmatia’s Insular Rivalry

The island of Vis, the farthest inhabited off the Dalmatian coast, has long been known for its fishing and its fishermen. Some go so far as to claim that the inventions of these fishermen changed the world. The first fish cannery on the Mediterranean was set right in Komiža, the island’s second largest settlement. In the early 20th […]

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