Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Tartare

Triple Reindeer Tartare, Chanterelles, Potatoes and Chives

This is the second recipe I’m making using my stash of reindeer meat. After the recent Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur, here’s a triple reindeer tartare, with three different reindeer cuts and preparations: tartare-perfect tenderloin, super-smoky and salty cold-smoked reindeer fillet, and reindeer salami. The first tenderloin and fillet strike a kind of balance […]

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Russian Cuisine - Reindeer Fillet, Porcini and Lingonberry Bulgur

Reindeer Fillet, Porcini, and Lingonberry Bulgur

Last month, during a short business trip to Sweden, I visited Stockholm’s venerable Östermalms Saluhall, a food market operating since 1888. While the historic hall is currently closed for renovation, the market has been transplanted to another building nearby. I was searching for something very specific and quite unique, something that you can’t acquire in […]

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Jewish Food - Chocolate Babka

Chocolate Babka, Part 1: The New York Baking Legend

Back when I posted my Apple, Vodka and Birch Syrup Babka with Cranberry Mors Sorbet, I touched briefly on the history of babka. Still, it’s worth noting here that this yeast cake from Western Russia, Poland, and Ukraine gave birth to many variations, some of them dramatically different from the original. After reading through a great number of […]

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Jewish-Polish Food - Bialys

Bialys, Bialystok’s Lost Onion Rolls

Everybody knows what a bagel is, but what about a bialy? “It’s like a bagel without a hole,” will say people who’ve had one. And these people have a point: bialys are generally sold in bagel shops, they’re good vehicles for cream cheese, they’re round, and their centers aren’t hollow. Both bialys and bagels come from […]

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Czech Cuisine - Giant Trout and Salmon Chlebíček

Giant Trout and Salmon Chlebíček

In Czech Republic, a chlebíček is just an open-faced sandwich. More often than not, what you’ll see is whole plates of assorted obložené chlebíčky (literally, garnished little breads), which give amateur cooks the opportunity to showcase their aesthetic leanings on little slices of bread, with complete disregard for practicality. Cured meat, cured fish, cheese, vegetables, herbs, pickles, egg, […]

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Czech Food - Svickova

Svíčková Na Smetaně, Czech Republic’s National Dish

Svíčková, which you might remember from my review of Bohemian Spirit Restaurant, is a curious dish. Take its name, for example. The recipe’s full name in Czech is svíčková na smetaně, meaning tenderloin with cream. Literally, svíčková means little candle, and is used to designate the tenderloin — because of its shape. Obviously. But in many cases, […]

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Eastern European Food - Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikas and Chanterelles

Stuffed Capon with Butternut Squash Paprikás and Chanterelles

A long, long time ago, back in 2012, Daniel Humm’s roast chicken for two at the NoMad was all the rage in foodie circles, “talked about more avidly and incessantly than any other new restaurant offering in town” according to The New York Times. All of a sudden, the most boring protein of the restaurant […]

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Hungarian Food - Somlói Galuska

Somlói Galuska, Hungarian Dessert Dumplings

You’ve probably never heard of Somlói galuska, and yet it is one of the Magyars’ favorite desserts. For some unfathomable reason, it doesn’t even appear on the menu at André’s Café. The name translates as “Somló dumpling” in English, Somló being a town near Lake Balaton, famous (moderately) for its hill and its wine. Calling […]

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