Red Alert: Coulibiac at M. Wells

Red Alert! Eastern European dishes are invading random Western restaurants! Should you duck and cover, or welcome the enemy?

The salmon coulibiac at M. Wells Diner is a serious dish that serves about 4 people. The favor profile is very focused: salmon, salmon roe, dill, chives and lemon — no mushrooms, rice or eggs like in some other recipes. The salmon is perfectly cooked, a rare prowess when it comes to puff pastry casing. The garnish consists of fried pickles. Do we really need fried dough with puff pastry? I’m not sure, but this almost made me love pickles.

Randomly, it turned out that the table dining next to us were the Law & Food guys! Hello!